{"authors":[{"id":"1747844279","orcid":"0000-0002-1531-8199","email":"richard.bowman@cantab.net","name":"Dr. Richard W. Bowman","affiliation":"University of Cambridge"}],"bricks":[{"abstract":"A 3D-printed microscope, including a flexure-based XYZ stage with sub-micron precision and 8mm range.","id":"993466590","functions":[{"id":"518036698","description":"Optical components (lens and sensor)","implementations":[{"id":"107837596","quantity":1,"type":"brick"}]},{"id":"1705195835","description":"Fine positioning control","implementations":[{"id":"909106319","quantity":1,"type":"brick"}]},{"id":"2102312477","description":"Mechanical stage","implementations":[{"id":"238216425","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"450245988","description":"Illumination","implementations":[{"id":"1392832614","quantity":1,"type":"part"},{"id":"450509554","quantity":4,"type":"part"},{"id":"1995350498","quantity":1,"type":"part"},{"id":"1476094922","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1925510102","description":"Sample Holder","implementations":[{"id":"589229119","quantity":2,"type":"part"},{"id":"640980340","quantity":2,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1158588719","description":"Control Computer","implementations":[{"id":"994386346","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1396286130","description":"Printer test object","implementations":[{"id":"86921105","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]}],"authors":["1747844279"],"files":[],"long_description":"Optomechanics is a crucial part of any microscope; when working at high magnification, it is absolutely crucial to keep the sample steady and to be able to bring it into focus precisely. Accurate motion control is extremely difficult using printed mechanical parts, as good linear motion typically requires tight tolerances and a smooth surface finish. This design for a 3D printed microscope stage uses plastic flexures, meaning its motion is free from friction and vibration. It achieves steps well below 100nm when driven with miniature stepper motors, and is stable to within a few microns over several days.\n\nThis design aims to minimise both the amount of post-print assembly required, and the number of non-printed parts required - partly to make it as easy as possible to print, and partly to maximise stability; most of the microscope (including all the parts with flexures) prints as a single piece. The majority of the expense is in the Raspberry Pi and its camera module; the design requires only around 100g of plastic and a few nuts, bolts and other parts. The optics module (containing the camera and lens) can be easily swapped out or modified, for example to add epifluorescence or change the magnification.","instructions":[{"name":"assembly","steps":[{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/all_printed_parts.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/all_parts_picam2.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/bed1_tall_picam2.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/bed2_shallow_picam2.stl"}],"description":"First, you will need to print or obtain the 3D printed parts. If you bought a kit, skip this step!\n\nThe microscope is designed to print without support material. This is quite important; if you use support material it will require a lot of cleaning up, and you may well damage the mechanism. I usually print with a layer size of 0.24mm on my Ormerod, which takes 8 hours for the main structure. \u201Clow\u201D quality on an Ultimaker 2 (0.15mm layers) produced similar results in about 5 hours.\n\nIf your printer has a standard-sized bed (180mmx180mm should be fine) then it should be possible to print the complete microscope in one go. I do this if I\u2019m using a machine that is well calibrated and reliable. However, I find that it\u2019s often more reliable to print in batches (as small parts at the edge of the print bed can detach and cause it to fail). I would recommend:\nBatch 1: Microscope, illumination and Optics module (main part)\nBatch 2: Feet, gears, camera cover, camera board gripper, camera lens remover, gear riser\nThere is a test file that prints a single leg of the microscope - the Microscope leg test object. It's worth printing this first to check your settings are OK.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/all_parts.jpg"}],"description":"Make sure you have all the necessary parts and tools. The parts should all be listed in the bill of materials, but for clarity you will need:\n\nPlastic parts:\n* 1x microscope body\n* 1x optics module\n* 1x illumination and rear foot\n* 2x tilted foot\n* 1x untilted foot\n* 3x gear\n* 1x camera cover\n* 2x sample clip (optional)\nPlastic tools (optional but helpful):\n* 1x camera board gripper (for v1 or v2 of the camera board)\n* 1x camera lens remover (for v1 or v2)\n* 1x gear elevator (optional)\nMetal hardware:\n* 3x M3 hexagon head 25mm screws, stainless steel\n* 3x M3 brass nut\n* 3x M3 stainless steel washer\n* 2x M3 8mm cap head screw (optional, for sample clips)\n* 2x M2 6mm cap head screw (optional, to secure camera more strongly)\nElectronic parts:\n* White LED, resistor, wire, and 2-way JST header connector (assembled as one cable in the kit)\n* Raspbery Pi camera module (v2, though v1 works if you substitute the relevant STL files)\n* Raspberry Pi (with associated power supply, keyboard, monitor, etc.)\nTools (not supplied in kit):\n* 2.5mm hex key (optional, for attaching sample clips)\n* 1.5mm hex key (optional, for double-securing camera board)\n* tape (electrical tape or PTFE plumbers tape work, though regular sticky tape is also fine)\n* sharp craft knife (for trimming tape)\n* 3mm drill bit in hand chuck (if you printed the parts yourself and need to open out the holes)\nDon\u2019t forget the raspberry pi, camera module, and associated screen, power supply, SD card, keyboard, mouse, etc. (I have not listed these explicitly, but they're needed to run the Pi).","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-main_body_drill.jpg"}],"description":"If you printed the parts yourself, start by opening out the three holes in the microscope body with a drill as shown. Make sure to go all the way through. If you don\u2019t have a drill, you can improvise by screwing in an M3 screw all the way, then forcibly rotating it with a screwdriver. While you\u2019re at it, do the same for the illumination mount. Also, remove any loose strings of plastic from the underside of the actuator housings or sample stage, using a pair of pliers. The last step shouldn't be necessary if your machine is calibrated nicely for printing bridges. If you purchased a kit, this may well have been done for you.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/actuator_parts_and_tools.jpg"}],"description":"First, assemble the three actuators, as described in the \"\" brick - it's the same procedure done three times, once for each actuator. You might find the central actuator is the best one to start with. This accounts for most of the time assembling the microscope. NB the instructions for this are later on in this file; if viewing it in Firefox, click \"OpenFlexure Microscope\" on the left, then pick it from the list of links that appears.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_10.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_5.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_6.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_7.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_8.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_led_9.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-illumination_led_10.jpg"}],"description":"Assemble the illumination: Bend the LED so it's pointing at right angles to the cable, then thread the wire for the LED through the illumination arm and push the LED into its hole. It's usually easiest to start at the LED end and feed the connector into the mount (it might require a little force). If you have a pre-made LED wire with a connector on the end, threading it through is all that's needed - if you just have the components you will need to connect them together in series first, and solder or crimp them. Some of the pre-made LED wires are thicker than expected, so they take some force to pull into the arm - but they will go in with some perseverance! You can stick a piece of white tape or sticky label over the LED (i.e. between the LED and the stage) to act as a diffuser, this helps to blur out out-of-focus artefacts, such as dirt on the wrong side of your microscope slide.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_2.jpg"}],"description":"Slot the illumination arm on to the dovetail mount for it at the back of the microscope. Wiggling it slightly makes it easier to push on. It should be pushed on from the bottom, and on version 5.15.1 and later, there should be a stop to prevent it sliding up and off.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/lens_insertion_0.jpg"}],"description":"Assemble the Raspberry Pi lens and camera into the optics module, as described in the \"Raspberry Pi Camera Mount\/Extension Tube\" brick.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_insertion_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_insertion_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-optics_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_insertion_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_insertion_4.jpg"}],"description":"Slot the optics module onto the dovetail mount, from the bottom. You may find it easier to fit if you wiggle the module from side to side as it goes in. It may also help to support the dovetail from the top (through the hole in the stage), as it will flex when you push the objective on to it. If you push too hard it is possible to break the flexure mechanism that holds the optics module.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/pi_gpio.jpg"}],"description":"Plug the LED cable into the GPIO connector on the Raspberry Pi, to the 0v and 5v lines. These are the second and third pins from the top of the connector, on the outside edge - pins number 4 and 6. Plug in the camera to the camera connector as described in the Raspberry Pi documentation (the connector is next to the Ethernet port, and the contacts on the cable face the port, i.e. they face away from the tab on the plug).","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-sample_clip_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_5.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip_6.jpg"}],"description":"After this, there are only the sample clips to go \u2013 exactly where you place these will depend on the samples you intend to use, but in any case you simply push the M3 screws into the clips, then screw down into the holes on the stage.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/microscope_complete_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/microscope_complete_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/microscope_complete_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/microscope_complete_4.jpg"}],"description":"Your microscope is now complete \u2013 happy observing!\nYou might want to consult https:\/\/www.raspberrypi.org\/documentation\/usage\/camera\/ or https:\/\/www.raspberrypi.org\/documentation\/usage\/camera\/raspicam\/README.md if you need a hand setting up the camera.","components":[]}]}],"name":"OpenFlexure Microscope","license":"CERN Open Hardware License","notes":"This is the second \"stable\" release of the microscope; ongoing development lives on the Github page https:\/\/github.com\/rwb27\/openflexure_microscope and the accompanying paper is available at http:\/\/dx.doi.org\/10.1063\/1.4941068 (the paper is open-access).\n\nThis microscope will be available through http:\/\/www.waterscope.org\/ in Summer 2016, as a kit (with or without printed parts and Raspberry Pi) or fully assembled."},{"abstract":"This is a push-fit extension tube that turns a Raspberry Pi camera module into a microscope with a field of view about 400um across and a resolution of around 2um (better than 2um in the case of v2 of the camera module).","id":"107837596","functions":[{"id":"592176179","description":"Mechanical holder","implementations":[{"id":"53886429","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"252462582","description":"Optics and Sensor","implementations":[{"id":"2120462144","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"996729609","description":"Tools for removing the lens","implementations":[{"id":"367417014","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]}],"authors":[],"files":[],"long_description":"This is the optics module for the OpenFlexure Microscope. It holds a Raspberry Pi camera module and lens, but the lens is reversed and placed 40mm from the sensor, allowing it to function as a high-magnification microscope with a resolution of around 2um. The push-fit mount for the camera module should be useful in other designs, too.","instructions":[{"name":"assembly","steps":[{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_module_parts.jpg"}],"description":"First, assemble the necessary tools and parts: the optics module plastic parts (the \"objective\" and camera board cover), the Raspberry Pi camera module (version 2), the tools for removing the camera lens, optionally two M2 screws to secure the camera, and ideally a sharp craft knife and some tape. NB the lens removal tool, board gripper, and optics module are all specific to the camera you're using (v1 or v2 of the Raspberry Pi camera module). This version of the instructions is for version 2 of the camera board, if you have v1 it's a similar process but the older versions of the instructions give more detail.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/static_warning.png"}],"description":"WARNING! The camera board is static sensitive. Take the usual anti-static precautions (ideally use an anti-static wristband connected to ground, but at the very least make sure you touch an earthed object, such as a metal pipe, before working on the camera module.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_lens_removal_0.jpg"}],"description":"We need to remove the lens from the camera. To do this, you need the two plastic tools (the board gripper and the lens remover) as well as the camera module.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_film_removal.jpg"}],"description":"Remove the protective film from the camera lens.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_board_gripper_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_board_gripper_2.jpg"}],"description":"There is a small ribbon cable connecting the camera to the PCB that is very easy to break. There is a square plastic jig that fits over the camera and PCB (the \"camera board gripper\"), which stops the camera twisting and damaging the ribbon cable. Fit this over the camera as shown. Note that the part for v2 of the camera board will sort-of fit v1, but you need to be a little more careful as it's not a perfect fit.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_lens_removal_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_lens_removal_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_lens_removal_3.jpg"}],"description":"Next, unscrew the lens from the camera module. Use the plastic tool to grip the lens module. This is a small circular part with four prongs that fits over the lens of the camera board (version 2 only) as shown. To remove the lens, push the removal tool onto the lens (just the top part, with the little plastic flanges) and turn anticlockwise to remove it. It only works if the prongs are pointing anticlockwise, so make sure it's the right way round. You will may feel a crack as it starts to move - this is normal. It's important to use the board gripper to hold the camera chip in place and prevent damage to the delicate ribbon cable. After you've removed the lens, check that the little black ribbon cable connecting the camera module (square plastic housing) to the PCB is still connected - pop it back in by pushing it with a finger if needed.\n\nOnce you've removed the lens, be sure to place the camera face down on the desk, or put a piece of tape over the square black lens holder; this will help stop dust settling on the sensor, which is hard to clean.","components":[]},{"files":[],"description":"Before assembling the parts into the holder, make sure it's free from dust by blowing some air through it, and check there are no strings of plastic in the central hole through the mount.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-lens_insertion_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/lens_insertion_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/lens_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/lens_insertion_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/lens_insertion_4.jpg"}],"description":"Next, put the lens into the holder. This may take a small amount of force, or may fit very easily and require a layer of tape wrapped around the lens to make it fit tightly (depending on your printer). If it looks like it will require too much force, you may have a different design of camera module and you may need to re-print the part slightly larger (or get a replacement if you bought a kit). If you wrapped tape around the lens, trim off any tape that protrudes above the lens with a scalpel or sharp craft knife.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_assembly_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_assembly_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_assembly_2.jpg"}],"description":"Finally, press the camera module onto the bottom of the optics mount, so the camera board sits flush with the bottom of the mount. The newer push-fit is much easier to use, and should fit in with a gentle but firm press from your thumb. It probably won't crack or click into place, but it should be held by the push-fit. Don't worry if it's not gripped very strongly, the cover will hold it in place.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_cover_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_cover_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_cover_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-camera_cover_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_cover_3.jpg"}],"description":"Slide the cover over the camera board, starting at the end farthest from the ribbon cable connector. This will stop the camera falling out, and also protects the PCB from short circuits.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_screws_1.jpg"}],"description":"Lastly, if you want to make the module more robust, you can insert two M2 screws from the bottom, to lock the cover on and hold the PCB in place. This is useful if the ribbon cable might be pulled accidentally, for example.","components":[]}]}],"name":"Raspbery Pi Camera Mount\/Extension Tube","license":"","notes":""},{"abstract":"An actuator, based on an M3 screw, brass nut, and elastic bands, that can precisely and repeatably move a plastic flexure mechanism.","id":"909106319","functions":[{"id":"118469770","description":"Lead screw","implementations":[{"id":"994401804","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"118469770","description":"Nut for lead screw","implementations":[{"id":"152726439","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"118469770","description":"Washer","implementations":[{"id":"1673661896","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1977413028","description":"Return spring","implementations":[{"id":"1798060650","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1731604542","description":"Actuating gear\/thumbwheel","implementations":[{"id":"735104653","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"1899580337","description":"Tool for pulling elastic bands","implementations":[{"id":"702468006","quantity":1,"type":"part"},{"id":"72777443","quantity":1,"type":"part"}]},{"id":"283952811","description":"Microscope feet","implementations":[{"id":"291392559","quantity":3,"type":"part"}]}],"authors":[],"files":[],"long_description":"This assembly is used to actuate each of the three axes of the OpenFlexure Microscope stage. I've included all the parts here except the main microscope body, as this is included in the main microscope brick. It consists of a plastic gear that fits onto an M3 screw, which then pulls up on a brass nut. Elastic bands pull down on the nut, tensioning the system. This confers two benefits: firstly, it allows us to actuate the flexure mechanism both up and down - doubling the travel - and secondly, it eliminates much of the backlash from the system.","instructions":[{"name":"assembly","steps":[{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-actuator_parts_and_tools.jpg"}],"description":"There are three of these actuators on the microscope: these steps should be followed for each one in turn. Note the quantities in the parts list are for one actuator, and they don't include the microscope body.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_insertion_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_insertion_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_insertion_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_insertion_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-nut_insertion_4.jpg"}],"description":"We need to place a nut inside each actuator: screw a brass nut onto the end of the hex-head screw, and press it in firmly. The actuator will move \u2013 this is normal. You need to push hard enough that the axis moves to the top of its travel, so you're pushing agains the top of the column.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_inserted_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/nut_inserted_1.jpg"}],"description":"The brass nut should jam into place, so that the screw is able to hang from it. Make sure the screw is as straight as possible (i.e. if you let go, it should stay in the middle of the hole, rather than leaning against one of the sides). Gently unscrew the screw, leaving the nut embedded in the plastic.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/thumbscrew_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/thumbscrew_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/thumbscrew_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/thumbscrew_washer_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/thumbscrew_washer_1.jpg"}],"description":"Next, put one of the hex-head screws into the gear as shown, then place a washer over the screw.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-screw_insertion_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_5.jpg"}],"description":"Screw into the nut from the top of the microscope, gently at first to avoid dislodging the nut, but then do it up tightly. Make sure the washer is on the screw before screwing it in, to avoid damaging the microscope. Hold the microscope upside down if the nut didn\u2019t wedge in correctly. Put the screw in until the gear touches the microscope body, then keep turning - you will feel some resistance as the nut (and the head of the screw) is pulled into the plastic. When the resistance increases, stop turning and unscrew until the bottom of the actuator sits flush with the bottom of the microscope. You should see the head of the screw pulled into the gear, so that it sinks below the top surface of the gear.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_badnut_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/screw_insertion_badnut_1.jpg"}],"description":"If you weren't able to jam the nut in, the previous step may be difficult. In that case, you can use a spare hex-head screw to hold the nut in place while you screw into it from the top. You should then be able to pull it into the plastic as described above.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/foot_band_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/foot_band_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/foot_band_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/foot_band_4.jpg"}],"description":"Now it's time for the elastic band. Using the bent paperclip, hook the band through the slots on either side of the foot. Remember that the feet are not all the same - there are two tilted feed for the outer actuators (the top and bottom of the feet are not parallel), and one untilted foot for the inner actuator. This means that the microscope sits on the outer two feet and the back foot (part of the illumination column), so it doesn't wobble.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_0.jpg"}],"description":"TODO delete some text here Next, we need pull the elastic band into the body of the microscope - this is the tricky part! First, check you have the right foot (the outer ones are tilted, the middle one is not tilted and is slightly shorter). Also, make sure it's round the right way - the notch in the foot should point towards the centre of the microscope so the actuator can protrude below the bottom of the main body. For each actuator you will need a foot and one elastic band, as well as the all-important bent paperclip tool and the U-shaped spacer to raise the gear.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/gear_elevator_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/gear_elevator_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/gear_elevator_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-gear_elevator_3.jpg"}],"description":"Use the U-shaped spacer (the \"gear elevator\") to raise the gear up (this makes it much easier to hook the elastic bands in). Unscrew the gear almost all the way, so there is some space between it and the actuator column. Then pull it up, and insert the spacer.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_1_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_1_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_1_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-band_hooking_1_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_1_4.jpg"}],"description":"Now place the foot underneath the microscope as shown. Note that the cut-out on the foot goes towards the centre of the microscope (check this, it's annoying to fix later). Use the hook to pull the elastic band through and over the slots on one side of the actuator. The inner part of the actuator should be a millimetre or two from the top - a slight gap makes it much easier to put the bands in.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_2_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_2_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_2_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooking_2_4.jpg"}],"description":"Repeat the process on the other side, so the arrangement is symmetrical.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooked_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_hooked_1.jpg"}],"description":"Remove the spacer and screw in the gear, so that the axis is in its middle position (i.e. the gear rests on the top of the actuator column). If you pull down the foot, you should see four bits of elastic band going up vertically from the foot to the microscope, as shown in the picture. There are lugs on the top of the foot that should click into place on the microscope - though you may need to squeeze the foot and push fairly hard to get it in. If you break the lugs or can't fit it in don't worry - it won't affect the functioning of the microscope.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/0-band_tightening_1_4.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_5.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_1_6.jpg"}],"description":"The elastic band is now in place, but we need to tighten it. Depending on the precise size and stretchiness of your elastic band, you may need to do this to one or both ends of it. If you only do this once, you might need to shuffle the band around to transfer some tension from one side to the other. The basic idea is that you pull the elastic band through the slot on the bottom of the foot, and wrap it around the outside of the foot to take up the slack.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_2_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_2_2.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_2_3.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/band_tightening_2_4.jpg"}],"description":"Repeat on the other loop (unless your elastic band is shorter than mine, in which case you might need to adjust the procedure slightly).","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/actuators_finished_0.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/actuators_finished_1.jpg"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/actuators_finished_2.jpg"}],"description":"Congratulations, you've assembled the actuator! There are three to do, so you may now need to go back and make the next one.","components":[]}]}],"name":"Anti-backlash flexure actuator","license":"","notes":""}],"parts":[{"id":"152726439","files":[],"description":"These nuts form part of the actuator. Brass ones will have less friction and result in smoother motion, though it's possible they will wear out more quickly.","name":"M3 Nuts (preferably brass)","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"11355","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"http:\/\/www.anglianfasteners.co.uk\/","supplier":"Anglian Fasteners Limited"},{"id":"994401804","files":[],"description":"These screws are used as the lead screws for the stage; stainless steel is probably best. If hexagon-head screws are not available, a good substitute is to screw a nut tightly against the head of the screw, so the screw can still be turned by the thumbwheel or gear.","name":"25mm M3 Hexagon-head screw","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"6663","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"http:\/\/www.anglianfasteners.co.uk\/","supplier":"Anglian Fasteners Limited"},{"id":"1673661896","files":[],"description":"","name":"M3 Washer","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"7118","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"http:\/\/www.anglianfasteners.co.uk\/","supplier":"Anglian Fasteners Limited"},{"id":"589229119","files":[],"description":"","name":"8mm M3 screws","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"14315","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"http:\/\/www.anglianfasteners.co.uk\/","supplier":"Anglian Fasteners Limited"},{"id":"1392832614","files":[],"description":"The white LED is for illumination. Exact specifications are unimportant, but this is the one I use. 3mm diameter is what I've designed for, but there's no reason you couldn't tweak the illumination arm to use a 5mm LED.","name":"White LED, 3mm diameter, 15 degree beam angle","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"1716696","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"OVL-3321","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":"Farnell Element14"},{"id":"1476094922","files":[],"description":"This resistor allows the LED to be run from a 5V GPIO pin on the Raspberry Pi. If you use a different LED, you may need a different resistor. Note the maximum current you can draw from the Pi is not huge.","name":"60 Ohm resistor","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"1565328","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"MFR3-68RFC","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":"Farnell Element14"},{"id":"450509554","files":[],"description":"You need wires to connect the LED to the 5V power supply from the Raspberry Pi. If you've bought a kit, it will be supplied with a ready-made lead that has the LED at one end and the header connector at the other end. My preferred DIY option is two cores from a ribbon cable, soldered to the LED and resistor at one end and with a crimped-on connector at the other. If you want a no-soldering solution, four female-female jumpers allow you to connect everything (using a cut-off leg of the resistor to join two of them together).","name":"Jumper wires with female header pin connectors","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"1798060650","files":[],"description":"Keep some spare elastic bands!\nThe elastic bands are important to provide a return force on the nut that is pulled upwards by the screw. I use number 32 bands, which are about 3mm wide and about 150mm in circumference (i.e. 75mm long when measured as a loop. It would also be possible to use shorter bands and wrap them round the foot fewer times. If only thin elastic bands are available, you may need to use multiple bands or fold bands in half to get enough force.","name":"Elastic bands, No. 32","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"994386346","files":[],"description":"Any model will do! If you buy a kit, it may or may not come with a Pi. NB if you buy a Pi Zero, only the Zero+ has a camera connector, and even that needs a special lead.","name":"Raspberry Pi","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"2120462144","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/camera_board_v1.jpg"}],"description":"NB I've pictured v1.3 of the camera board here; the microscope works with v1 or v2, but you need to make sure you print the correct optics module to fit your camera.","name":"Raspberry Pi Camera Module","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"238216425","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/main_body_vanilla.stl"}],"description":"","name":"Microscope Body","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/main_body.jpg"}],"description":"This should be printed without support material. On smaller\/less well calibrated machines, I print this part on its own and then print the rest of the parts in a second print. The microscope body takes around 8 hours on a RepRapPro Ormerod (and many other low-end printers) or about 5 hours on Ultimaker, MakerBot, and the like.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/main_body_drill.jpg"}],"description":"After printing, you should run a 3mm drill bit through the 3mm holes in each actuator, to ensure the screws can rotate freely.","components":[]},{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/main_body_bottom.jpg"}],"description":"If the bottom layer has oozed out too much, or if you used a brim (not reccommended) you might need to clean up the bottom so it looks like this - it's important that the moving parts aren't stuck to the body with a thin layer of plastic (this most often happens around the struts connecting the objective clip to the rest of the microscope).","components":[]},{"files":[],"description":"You may need to use needle-nose pliers to pull strings of plastic from the underside of the microscope stage or the underside of the caps of the actuator columns. If your printer is correctly calibrated there shouldn't be much, and I often get away without any - but some printers (particularly if using ABS) are prone to a bit of \"spaghetti\" under the stage.","components":[]}]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.1","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"291392559","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/untilted_foot.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/tilted_foot.stl"}],"description":"You need two tilted feet (tilted_foot.stl) and one untilted foot (untilted_foot.stl) for each microscope.","name":"Microscope feet","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"53886429","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_picam2_pilens.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/optics_picam1_pilens.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam_cover.stl"}],"description":"","name":"Optics module plastic parts","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[{"files":[],"description":"There are two versions of the optics module, for the two versions of the Raspberry Pi camera board. Make sure you pick the right STL file for your camera module! The cover is the same for both.","components":[]},{"files":[],"description":"The optics module needs to print with some fine detail, so the dovetail meshes nicely with the stage. A good way to ensure this is to print it at the same time as other parts - either print more than one optics module at a time, or print it at the same time as the microscope body. This slows down the time for each layer, and means the plastic can cool more completely before the layer on top is deposited, resulting in a higher-quality part. The optics module is best printed in black to cut down on stray light inside the tube - though it will still work in other colours.","components":[]}]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"367417014","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_lens_remover.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam2_board_gripper.stl"},{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/picam1_board_gripper.stl"}],"description":"These tools make it much easier to remove the lens from a Raspberry Pi camera module. See the documentation for the Raspberry Pi Camera Mount\/Extension Tube for instructions. These tools are for version 2 of the camera board. The board gripper for v1 is included for convenience - you'll need a small pair of pliers (I like mini combination pliers) to unscrew the lens if you have v1 of the board.","name":"Camera lens removal tools","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"735104653","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/large_gear.stl"}],"description":"These gears are used to control the leadscrews that move the stage. You can replace them with more comfortable thumbscrews if desired, or use stepper motors to drive them automatically. You need three gears. NB the gears are designed to print with the circular face down, this avoids marring of the teeth and helps it stick to the bed better.","name":"Gear\/thumbscrew","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"702468006","files":[],"description":"","name":"Paperclip","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[{"files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/bent_paperclip.jpg"}],"description":"You need a paperclip (or other relatively stiff piece of wire) to pull the elastic bands through the structure. I find the handle from a foldback clip works well. The exact shape you use is not important, but it probably needs to have a small (<3mm wide) hook at one end, a straight section in the middle, and some sort of handle at the end. I have included a photograph of my usual shape.\n\nTypically I use two pairs of pliers to bend this. This will come as a part of the kit of non-printed parts.","components":[]}]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"NONE","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"1995350498","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/illumination_and_rear_foot_standard_stage.stl"}],"description":"The illumination arm fits on to the microscope using a dovetail, and includes the rear foot. This prints best with other parts of a similar height, e.g. other illumination arms, the optics module, or the microscope body.","name":"Illumination arm and rear foot","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"640980340","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/sample_clip.stl"}],"description":"These are optional, but they are useful for holding slides on the stage. Usually, I use two of these for a normal microscope slide, screwed onto the top of the stage.","name":"Sample Clip","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.002","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"86921105","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/just_leg_test.stl"}],"description":"This test piece checks your printer can bridge between the tops of the legs without failing. If it passes this test, you're probably fine to print the rest of the microscope.","name":"Microscope leg test object","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.01","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""},{"id":"72777443","files":[{"url":".\/.\/.\/usdata\/gear_elevator.stl"}],"description":"This part is useful if you want to assemble the elastic bands after putting the gears on; it lifts the gear up and out of the way, so you can reach in with the bent paperclip tool. However, I reccommend assembling the elastic bands before putting the gear on - this is simpler although it takes slightly longer.","name":"Spacer for actuating gear","manufacturing_instruction":{"steps":[]},"supplier_part_num":"","material_amount":"0.001","manufacturer_part_num":"","material_unit":"KG","url":"","supplier":""}]}